Greenery that needs a little and regular watering. Keep indoors or outdoors. Look for a light spot or partial shade. Bulbs or head of a plant in the ground. It has an insufficiently shortened stem on which there are numerous leaves. The bulbs have amaryllis, gladiolus, hyacinths, tulips, Freesia, Saffron, Lily, etc. The bulb is a shortened underground tree covered with succulent scales. The scales are transformed leaves in which organic matter has accumulated. It is better to remove the bulbs (or tubers) from the ground before the frost, because they rest better. In the spring it will have a firm stem and a larger flower. A good landmark for extracting bulbs is the moment when the leaves start to turn yellow and wither. If the tubers freeze during the winter, nothing will save them anymore. When the tubers are taken out of the ground – then the tubers should be cleaned from the ground and dried well. It is good to leave the cleaned tubers in a shaded place for a few days to dry as much as possible. The recommendation of experienced gardeners is to store only healthy, undamaged bulbs. When removing the bulbs, you will also notice a number of small bulbs. These are new plants and their way of reproduction. You need to give these young bulbs a chance to get stronger. It is possible to separate the tubers in a special pot and cover well with soil. Occasionally the tubers should be watered and the progress checked. Tubers should be kept in not too cold rooms. For new and old potted bulbs, holes should always be provided to ensure water flow.
During the winter, it is especially important that the bulbs are stored in pots (in bags or newsprint), that they are in the dark and not exposed to air, as condensation of water vapor from the bulb itself can occur. This can cause putrefaction. Such a microclimate favors the development of various bacteria and fungi. The ideal temperature for storing bulbs is 3 to 5 degrees. Before storing the bulbs, sort by type and color so that in the spring, when it warms up, you can more easily stack your flower garden. During the winter, it is good to inspect the bulbs from time to time (any damaged and infected ones should be discarded immediately). Due to mild winters, the bulbs can overwinter in the ground, but it is good to protect their beam, for example with dry leaves, straw or pine needles. Florists recommend removing the bulbs, because the plant rests better during the winter and prepares for the new flowering season. It will be reflected in a firmer stem and a larger flower. Plant tulips or daffodils in pots if you want to have these flowers on the window in winter. It is important to keep in mind that a 5 cm bulb must have a pot four times larger. Turn the pointed tip upwards. If you plant several bulbs in the same pot, let the distance between them be about 2 cm. During the following months, the plant is watered occasionally. The soil should not be dry, but also not very moist. Place the pots in a cool, dark place to allow the plants to develop roots well. All bulbous flowers, say florists, can be grown very easily so it is recommended for beginners as well.
Tulips-can bloom for years. Each garden looks empty without roses in June and tulips in April. The magic of these food bulbs are the first after the long winter months that really noticeably and cheerfully herald spring, as well as work and life outdoors. The lifespan of tulips in the garden is tied to the place of planting. Tulips need sun – at least six hours a day in full sun. If the tulips have the sun all day, so much the better. More sun means more heat. More heat means better health of tulips. An important position is where water does not run off and is not retained. Heavy soil where water lags is not for tulips. Recessed positions where rainwater collects are also not appropriate. The aeration and drainage of the soil can be improved if we mix sand with the soil, but only if we achieve that the rainwater drains deeply. For tulips, for example, beams over sunny retaining walls are ideal where most garden plants are too hot and too dry. In order to create conditions for tulips in which they will be able to live for years, it is necessary to prepare the soil in an appropriate position. The least we can do is dig the soil with a shovel and work it at least 30 cm deep.
1. Add compost to the soil that has not yet been cultivated, because the bulbs need organic matter. By adding sand or river sand we can improve the permeability of the upper layer of soil. Bulbs are usually sold as early as September. It is best to buy them in the fall when the selection is greatest. We plant the tubers in October and maybe as early as the beginning of November. The general rule is to plant them to a depth of two bulb thicknesses. We can plant deeper, but not shallower; we plant deeper, for example, tulips in coastal areas. The only thing we have to pay attention to when planting is that the “nose” of the bulb is turned upwards. If we do not have the right conditions for tulips, we will use them as annual plants. We plant them in the fall and look forward to spring if they bloom at all. And we don’t expect it to show any signs of life next spring. The planting density of tulips should not be less than that between the bulbs there is room for three thicknesses of bulbs. Tulips planted in pots should be watered regularly. The bulbs should not swim during the winter, but they should not dry out completely. Gardeners often complain that a few years after planting tulips remain only “feathers”, and the flower no longer has any. It is true that this happens if we do not treat tulips properly. The first rule is that the flower heads should be torn off immediately after flowering. One third of the total “energy” produced by the plant is used to shape the seeds, and we really don’t need that in the garden. 2. Decapitated plants have stronger bulbs, and that’s what we want. We fertilize tulips at the same time. Let’s use a mineral fertilizer with little nitrogen and more phosphorus and potassium. We will bury the fertilizer shallowly, but we must be careful not to cut the bulbs. 3. The third thing that people have the hardest time understanding is that the leaves have to stay on the bed until it just dries. So by June. Fallen leaves are not an ornament, but those who cut them should not later complain that the tulips will only have “feathers” next year. 4. Are the bulbs dug up over the summer? The answer is no. That job in the proper position is unnecessary and tedious. If the bulbs are dug up after all, they should be stored properly. The appropriate temperature for summer storage is 17 to 23 ° C (i.e. in the house, not in the basement), and the storage should not be damp (i.e., in a dry place and not in the basement space for potatoes). The bulbs spread out in boxes. Only healthy bulbs are stored and never peeled. 5. Tulips should still be dug up when they become too thick. Let’s say every third or fifth year. We do this at a time when the leaves have already turned yellow but are still clinging to the bulb. With the help of digging pitchforks, we lift the bulbs out of the ground and sift them: we replant the strong ones and throw away the smaller ones. We can plant them back immediately or store them in the summer as described. If voles and deer are ravaged in the garden, we will not be able to preserve tulips permanently. There are thousands of recipes for it, only they don’t work. It is simplest to keep daffodils, imperial tulip (Fritillaria imperialis) and smaller bulbs that are not tasty for animals in such a garden instead of tulips: Galanthus nivalis, Leucojum vernum, hyacinths (Muscari), hyacinths (Hyacinthoides hispanica), scallops . In a garden where there are no “evil” animals, tulips can be naturalized: let them take root in the grass and live for decades. For this we need to have the right position, soil and variety. Experience says that varieties from the group of Darwin’s and simple early tulips are best maintained. On the paper next to the variety, it is always written which group the tulips belong to. We plant deep and with the first mowing we wait from six to eight weeks after the end of flowering. Full tulips do not thrive in areas where there is a lot of rain; rain load the open flowers so much that they break or are damaged so that they become pointy. Early full low-growing tulips are great for pots. Late full tulips (peony tulips) grow more so they are sensitive to a combination of wind and rain – which bends and breaks the tulips. We have similar difficulties with parrot tulips that have a heavy and fleshy flower. Varieties that have a green line in the middle of the petals belong to the fashion group of viridiflora – tulips of green flowers. In a similar way are the new and interesting hedgehog tulips that have hairs and tassels on the edge of the flowers. The more unusual the variety, the shorter the lifespan in the garden. Two groups of tulips bloom as early as March: Grieg’s and Kaufmann’s tulips. Griegs have a characteristic reddish pattern on the leaves and raise the flower heads 20 or at most 30 inches high. Kaufmann tulips have monochromatic bluish leaves and remain even lower; when they bloom, the flowers open wide. Kaufmann’s tulips complement the rock particularly well. For sunny rocky areas are also suitable so-called. botanical tulips. Turkestan (Tulipa turkestanica) and late tulip (Tulipa tarda) are proven to be resistant.