The beauty industry is constantly expanding and evolving. The public is well acquainted with the classic ingredients of cosmetic products (vitamin C, vitamin E, retinol and hyaluronic acid). Classic ingredients are constantly being improved and developed. There are more modern ingredients that are increasingly being promoted today (niacinamide, CBD, PHA, bakuchiol, cica and others). These more modern ingredients stand out constantly in cosmetic novelties and countless tags on the internet.
- Niacinamide – is a form of vitamin B3 that gently and intensively restores and evens out the complexion.
- CBD is an abbreviation for the compound cannabidiol obtained from hemp (a type of hemp that has no connection with opiates). It has an anti-inflammatory effect and soothes the skin.
- Bakuchiol is an extract of the plant Psoralea corylifolia that has always been added to Ayurvedic care products. In modern medicine it is a beneficial substitute for retinol.
- The plant Centella or “cica” (Centella asiatica) is known as “gotu cola” which has long been used in the Far East to recover damaged and sensitive skin. In the West, it is known as a typical ingredient of so-called K-beauty or popular Korean cosmetics.
- PHA or polyhydroxy acid (most commonly used gluconolactone and lactobionic acid) are a mild nourishing alternative to common AHA (alpha-hydroxyl) acids (such as glycolic and lactic acid) and BHA (beta-hydroxy acid) of which salicylic acid is among the best known.
With all these ingredients, there are large amounts of data and countless explanations. Data include natural ingredients (activated carbon, clay, algae, herbal ingredients, essential oils, base oils, etc.). There are many articles, reviews, guides and advisors on the Internet, as well as recommendations on the use of certain ingredients and products for certain skin types. Today, lay people also need to know and have some knowledge about formulations, chemical equations and the effects of cosmetics. This trend is now called “skintellectual” (a compound of two words: skin and intellectual). Such “skintellectual” is defined as a person with a good knowledge of the ingredients, benefits, scientific knowledge and needs of one’s own skin. It is believed that precisely because of the “skintellectual” approach, the cosmetics industry is becoming more innovative and advanced and product data is becoming more transparent, understandable and accessible to all. A cosmetic product, on the other hand, is a complex creation that comes down to favored ingredients and the synergy of a number of ingredients. The paradox is that in cosmetic trends, clarity, simplicity and minimalism (in principle – less is more) in care are promoted at the same time, while products and data on ingredients are quickly multiplied to become opaque. You should always seek the advice of professionals, cosmetologists, dermatologists and pharmacists who know the skin and skin care products thoroughly and in depth.
A distinction should be made between skin type and skin condition. The basic skin types are hereditary or genetically determined and determined by the skin’s ability to produce more or less sebum (normal skin, dry, oily and combination skin) – say beauticians. As the skin and the body are constantly changing (due to aging, lifestyle and living environment), all skin types are not fixed. This can lead to various conditions – sensitivity or dehydration. Dry skin is a type of skin genetically caused by a lack of fats or lipids needed to retain moisture and protect against external influences. Dry skin means needs hydration and a nourishing product with lipids (ceramide). Dehydrated skin is a condition of lack of moisture that can affect any skin type. Hydration for dehydrated skin should be carefully adjusted with preparations with light textures.